Frequently Asked Questions for Whynter Appliances

FAQs

Portable Air Conditioners
Ice Cream Makers
Wine Coolers and Wine Refrigerators
Dehumidifiers

What is a portable air conditioner?

A portable air conditioner is a self-contained, freestanding unit designed to cool individual rooms. It includes wheels for easy movement, an exhaust hose, and a window kit to vent hot air outside. Ideal for homes, offices, dorms, server rooms, and more.

How does a portable air conditioner work?

Draws in warm room air
Cools it using an internal compressor and refrigerant
Expels cooled air back into the room
Vents hot air outside through an exhaust hose
Removes humidity through automatic evaporation or drainage

Do portable air conditioners need to be vented?

Yes. All portable ACs must vent hot air to the outside to cool effectively. This is typically done through a window using the included kit. Alternate venting options include sliding doors, drop ceilings, or dedicated wall vents.

Can I install the window kit vertically or horizontally?

Yes. Whynter window kits work with both vertical (sliding) and horizontal (sash) windows. Measure your window and cut the panel to fit for a secure seal.

Can I use a portable AC without a window?

Not directly. While a window is the most common solution, alternatives include:

Vertical sliding doors (with kit)
Drop ceiling panels
Wall vent installation
Dryer vent exhaust (if compatible)

What is the difference between single hose and dual hose units?

Single hose:

Pulls air from the room to cool
Simpler setup, less efficient in large or sunny rooms

Dual hose:

One hose brings in outside air
One hose exhausts warm air
Cools faster and helps maintain room pressure

How do I choose the right size portable AC?

Use BTU (British Thermal Unit) ratings to match your room size:

Up to 300 sq ft → 8,000–10,000 BTU
300–500 sq ft → 11,000–14,000 BTU
500+ sq ft → 14,000+ BTU

Consider ceiling height, sun exposure, and appliance heat when sizing.

Do portable air conditioners remove humidity?

Yes. As the unit cools, it also dehumidifies the air. Most Whynter models use auto-evaporation, and in high-humidity areas, you can also connect a drainage hose for continuous water removal.

How do I drain the unit?

Auto-evaporation: Water is expelled with hot air through the exhaust hose
Manual drain: Open the lower rear drain port to remove excess water. Place a low-profile container, shallow pan, or bucket under the port to catch the water safely.

Tip: For a cleaner and more convenient solution, use the Whynter Drain Bucket Accessory, designed to fit securely beneath the drain outlet and prevent spills.

Continuous drainage (applicable models only): Attach a hose to the upper drain port in a downward direction for hands-free draining into a floor drain or bucket

Tip: Ensure the continuous drainage hose flows downward by gravity and is not kinked or elevated, as this may prevent proper drainage.

Can my portable air conditioner share an outlet with other devices?

No. For safety and optimal performance, your portable air conditioner should be plugged directly into a grounded wall outlet on a dedicated circuit. Sharing an outlet with other high-powered devices (like refrigerators, microwaves, or power strips) can cause:

Circuit overloads or tripped breakers
Overheating or fire hazards
Damage to the unit
Voided warranty

Tip: If a dedicated outlet isn’t available, consult a licensed electrician.

How loud is a portable air conditioner?

Most units operate between 50–60 dB, similar to a conversation or fan. Sound levels vary by fan speed and compressor activity.

Can I run my portable AC continuously?

Yes, but it’s best to give the unit breaks for optimal performance and longevity. Make sure:

Filters are clean
Hoses are secure
The unit is placed in a ventilated area

Why isn’t my unit cooling properly?

Common reasons:

Room is too large for the unit
Direct sunlight or poor insulation
Dirty filters or blocked exhaust
Window kit is not sealed properly
Compressor delay (wait 3–5 minutes before restarting)

How do I clean the filters?

Remove and rinse the washable filters with warm water every two weeks. Let dry completely before reinstalling.

How do I store my portable air conditioner?

Power off and unplug
Drain all water from the unit
Clean and dry the filters and hose
Coil accessories and store in the unit (if possible)
Keep upright in a cool, dry place

Before next use, let the unit sit upright for at least 2 hours.

Is the refrigerant eco-friendly?

Yes. Whynter portable ACs use eco-friendly, CFC-free refrigerants such as R-32 or R-410A.

What is EER (Energy Efficiency Ratio)?

EER (Energy Efficiency Ratio) measures how efficiently a portable air conditioner cools a space, calculated as:
EER = BTUs ÷ Watts

A higher EER means better energy efficiency. For example, a unit with 10,000 BTUs that uses 1,000 watts has an EER of 10.

CEER (Combined Energy Efficiency Ratio) is a more modern metric that includes standby/off-mode power consumption. CEER is considered a better indicator of real-world energy usage, especially for units with digital displays or remotes. Look for CEER ratings of 8.5 or higher for good efficiency.

Tip: Both EER and CEER are helpful, but CEER is used more often for window units, while portable ACs are better evaluated by their SACC rating (see next question).

What is SACC (Seasonally Adjusted Cooling Capacity)?

SACC, or Seasonally Adjusted Cooling Capacity, is the Department of Energy’s (DOE) 2017 standard for portable air conditioners. Unlike the older BTU ratings, SACC accounts for:

Variable room conditions
Heat added by the unit’s motor
Air leakage during venting

It gives a more accurate picture of how well a portable AC will cool in real-world use.

Example:
An older unit rated at 14,000 BTU (ASHRAE) might have a SACC rating of only 8,500–10,000 BTU. This doesn’t mean it’s weaker—just more accurately labeled.

Look for:

Both SACC and ASHRAE BTU ratings on modern units
SACC numbers between 6,000–12,000 BTU for most home uses
A unit with dual hose design will generally have a higher SACC for the same ASHRAE rating

Is it safe to run the AC overnight or while I’m away?

Yes, when used as directed:

Ensure unit is on a flat surface
Hoses and vents must be secure
Filters must be clean
No flammable items nearby

Can I extend the exhaust hose?

We do not recommend extending the exhaust or intake hose of your portable air conditioner. Longer hoses can:

Reduce cooling efficiency
Increase backpressure on the compressor
Lead to overheating or system failure
Void your product warranty

If extension is absolutely necessary, follow these guidelines:

Do not exceed 9 feet in total hose length
Avoid sharp bends or vertical lifts
Use only rigid or semi-rigid ducting that matches the original hose diameter — using a Whynter-approved accessory is best
Never connect multiple hoses or use duct tape as a permanent seal

Tip: Always place the unit close to the window or venting location. The shorter and straighter the hose, the better the performance and longevity of your portable AC.

What accessories are available for Whynter portable ACs?

Replacement window kits
Exhaust and intake hoses
Continuous drain hoses
Remote controls
Foam insulation seals

Visit our Accessories Page for compatible parts.

My unit displays STOP, P1, or FL—what does that mean?

These messages indicate that the internal tank is full. Drain the unit manually or ensure the drain hose is properly connected for continuous drainage.

What’s the best way to improve cooling performance?

Close blinds and windows during daylight
Keep doors closed in the room being cooled
Clean filters regularly
Use dual-hose units for larger spaces
Do not extend or bend the exhaust hose unnecessarily

What is a compressor ice cream maker?

A compressor ice cream maker is a self-refrigerating machine that doesn’t require pre-freezing of the bowl. It uses a built-in compressor cooling system to freeze and churn your mixture simultaneously, allowing you to make multiple batches back-to-back.

What are the advantages of a compressor model?

No pre-freezing required
Consistent freezing throughout the churning process
Make multiple batches without delay
More professional results with creamier texture
Includes timer and keep-cool functions (applicable models)

Ideal for: Home chefs, families, or anyone who makes frozen desserts regularly.

How long does it take to make ice cream?

Most Whynter compressor ice cream makers take 30–60 minutes per batch, depending on the recipe, ambient temperature, and mixture temperature.

Do I need to pre-freeze the bowl?

No. Whynter compressor models feature built-in refrigeration, so there’s no need to freeze the bowl in advance. Just pour in your mixture and press start.

Can I make other desserts besides ice cream?

Yes! You can also make:

Gelato
Sorbet
Frozen yogurt
Non-dairy and vegan frozen desserts
Frozen custards
Frozen cocktails and mocktails

Need ideas? Browse our ice cream recipes for seasonal flavors, dairy-free options, and more.

How much ice cream can I make at once?

Capacity varies by model

Always check your specific model’s capacity and manual for max fill lines to prevent overflow.

How do I clean the machine?

Remove the mixing bowl and churning blade
Wash them with warm, soapy water
Wipe down the interior and exterior with a damp cloth
Do not immerse the machine base or compressor housing in water

Tip: Clean right after each use for easiest cleanup and best hygiene.

Why is my ice cream too soft or not freezing well?

Possible reasons:

Mixture was too warm when added
Overfilled mixing bowl
Lid not sealed properly
Machine placed in a warm environment or direct sunlight
Freezing cycle was too short
High alcohol content in the recipe — alcohol lowers the freezing point and may prevent proper hardening

Tip: Chill your base mixture in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours before use if using a warm base. Let the machine rest for 5–10 minutes between batches. If using alcohol, reduce the amount or balance it with other thickening ingredients (like cream or egg yolks) to maintain freezing efficiency.

Can I store the ice cream in the mixing bowl?

We recommend transferring finished ice cream to a separate airtight container for storage in your freezer. Keeping ice cream in the bowl long-term may affect texture and performance over time.

What’s the difference between ice cream, gelato, and sorbet?

Ice cream: Cream-based, higher fat, airier
Gelato: Milk-based, lower fat, denser and creamier
Sorbet: Fruit-based, dairy-free, light and refreshing

You can make all three in your Whynter compressor ice cream maker!

What is the difference between a Thermoelectric Wine Cooler and a Compressor Based Wine Refrigerator?

A Thermoelectric Wine Cooler uses cooling plates instead of a compressor to cool. Unlike compressor-based units, thermoelectric wine coolers do not use refrigerants and usually cannot reach lower temperatures and hold a smaller bottle capacity.

How does a Thermoelectric Wine Cooler cool?

Thermoelectric Wine Coolers use the Peltier effect to cool. When two different metals are attached, a current runs between them. Heat draws out of one metal into the other. In a thermoelectric cooler, there is a series of small metal fins called a heat sink. The cool side is inside the cabinet of the cooler. With the help of a fan, it circulates the cold air. The hot side of the Heat Sink sticks out of the outside wall of the cooler. There the fan disperses the heat outside the cabinet.

Benefits of a Thermoelectric Wine Cooler:

Energy Efficient: Thermoelectric cooling uses fewer moving parts and requires much less power and energy to operate.

Quiet Operation: Thermoelectric cooling requires little movement from internal parts, so as a result, it generates very little noise when in operation.

Vibration-Free: A thermoelectric wine cooler does not vibrate or disturb the wine within.

Cost-Effective: Thermoelectric Wine Coolers are generally less expensive than Compressor Based Wine Refrigerators.

Drawbacks of Thermoelectric Cooling:

Smaller Cooling Capacity: Thermoelectric cooling is not as powerful as compressor cooling, making it only suitable for small-capacity wine coolers.

Ambient Temperature Sensitive: Thermoelectric cooling is not the best for unstable or extra-warm, or cold environments. A high or low ambient temperature will significantly hinder the cooling capacity.

Freestanding Application: Thermoelectric Coolers must be freestanding with sufficient clearance and circulated airflow around the rear vents, making them unsuitable for built-in spaces.

How does a Compressor Based Wine Refrigerator cool?

In the refrigeration cycle, there are five essential components: refrigerant; a compressor, which controls the flow of refrigerant; the condenser coils (on the outside of the fridge); the evaporator coils (on the inside of the refrigerator); and an expansion valve.

The compressor sends hot compressed refrigerant gas through the condenser coils. As it passes through the coils the heat dissipates into the air.

Once the hot compressed refrigerant gas reaches the expansion valve, the gas expands and turns into a liquid.

As the now liquid refrigerant continues to flow through the evaporator coils, it absorbs and removes heat from the items inside the cabinet and flows back into the compressor, and the cycle repeats itself.

Benefits of a Compressor Based Wine Refrigerator:

Powerful Operation: Compressor cooled wine refrigerators have a much more powerful cooling capability, reaching lower temperatures than thermoelectric wine coolers, which is why most built-in units use a compressor.

Large Capacity: Because of its powerful cooling, compressor cooling can handle wine refrigerators with large wine bottle capacities.

Adapts to Environmental Stress: Compressor cooled wine refrigerators can better adapt to varying temperatures and extra heat loads, keeping a stable internal temperature despite environmental conditions.

Commonly Designed for Built-In Application: Compressor cooled wine refrigerators are usually designed for the built-in application, although some freestanding compressor-based models are available.

Drawbacks of Compressor Based Wine Refrigerators:

Small Vibrations: Because a compressor has many moving parts and can cycle on and off, compressor cooled wine refrigerators sometimes vibrate slightly.

Slight Noise Output: Again, because of the moving components and flowing refrigerant, compressor cooled wine refrigerators will give off noises such as:

The high-efficiency compressor may make a pulsating or high-pitched sound.
Rattling, bubbling, or gurgling sounds and slight vibrations result from the refrigerant circulating through the cooling coils.
Cracking or popping sounds are caused by the cooling coils or plates expanding and/or contracting.
Water running from the evaporator to the water bin may make a splashing sound.
As each cycle ends, you may hear a gurgling sound due to the refrigerant flowing in your wine refrigerator.
You may hear air being forced over the condenser by the condenser fan.

What is dehumidification?

The process removes excess moisture from the air and is accomplished by using a dehumidifier or air conditioner.

Why are dehumidifiers used?

Although air conditioners remove some excess moisture from the indoor environment, sometimes it isn’t enough. Rooms with condensation on the windows, wet stains on the walls and ceilings, mold, or musty scents may have a humidity issue. Ignoring these issues may lead to structural damage to the home and its contents, allergic reactions, respiratory problems, and other health issues may arise.

How does a dehumidifier work?

The dehumidifier pulls air through the filter from the room. The refrigerant cools the air, which causes the moisture in the air to condense. The moisture collects in a tray under the evaporator and condenser, then directed into the unit’s bucket for manual removal through the continuous gravity drain hose or the pump line (for applicable models). Dry air blows from the output vent back into the room.

Where are dehumidifiers used?

Homeowners can commonly use dehumidifiers in basements, laundry rooms, and crawl spaces. These spaces tend to be on the lower levels of the home, where humidity is usually the highest. These areas have constant contact with the moisture of the surrounding earth, making them more susceptible to moisture problems. Homeowners should use dehumidifiers in any room where moisture and humidity levels are high enough to lead to issues.

What is Relative Humidity (RH)?

The relative humidity is a percentage of how much water vapor is in the air relative to the maximum amount of water vapor the air can hold at a given temperature.

What is an ideal humidity level?

Generally, maintaining a 45-50 percent relative humidity level is ideal. Levels greater than 50 percent create an environment where mold, dust mites, bacteria, and sometimes even pests thrive. Environments that have odors and any staining on the walls may accelerate decaying to a home’s structure.

In turn, relative humidity levels below 30 percent can also cause damage. Low-humidity environments may lead to cracked ceilings, separated wood floors, and more. People sensitive to low humidity may also experience respiratory irritations and dry skin.

How is the moisture removed?

The collected moisture is removed by manually dumping the bucket, using continuous gravity drainage, or a pump (in applicable models).

How does the drain pump work?

One of the critical features of this dehumidifier is that it has a water pump that pushes water up or over a longer distance. Using this feature will enable your unit to run maintenance-free.